THE HISTORY OF SHOES

SHOE MAKING

Shoes both protect feet as well as, when incompatible in size and shape, present exciting factors in inflam-matory conditions e.g. bunion. Despite the presence of pain, people are reluctant to change their footwear styles. The main function of modern footwear is to provide feet with protection from hard and rough surfaces, as well as climate and environmental exposure. To the wearer the appearance of their footgear is often more important than its (mis) function.

Consumer resistance to change style is common. Informed decisions of shoe styles are thought to occur when the benefits of alternative shoe styles are carefully explained and footwear habits discussed in a culturally sensitive manner. The author, in the interests of intellectual exchange, explores the world of shoe making in an attempt to inform both lay person and health professional.

Anatomy of the Shoe
Shoe Lasts & Metrology
Methods of Shoe Construction
Shoe Styles
Shoe Size Systems
Problem Fitting
Footwear Assessment
DIscussion
References
Further Reading

Anatomy of the shoe
According to McPhoil (1988) the anatomy of a shoe can be divided in an upper and lower (or bottom part). Sections of the upper include vamp, quarter, toebox, throat, insole board, and topline. The sections of the lower shoe consist of an outsole, shank and heel.

The Upper of the Shoe
All parts or sections of the shoe above the sole that are stitched or otherwise joined together to become a unit then attached to the insole and outsole. The upper of the shoe consists of the vamp or front of the shoe, the quarter i.e. the sides and back of the shoe, and the linings. Uppers are made in a variety of different materials, both natural and synthetic. Leather became the obvious cover of choice because it allowed air to pass through to and from the skin pores thereby providing an opportunity to keep the feet, cool. The plastic properties of animal skins further help mould the shoe to the foot beneath. The ability for leather to crease over flexor surfaces facilitate the function of the foot. Ironically synthetics used as uppers display elastic properties, which mean the shoe upper never quite adjusts to the foot, shape in the same way as natural leather. Synthetics are cheaper to mass-produce and are now found in most mass produced footwear. Synthetic uppers are more waterproof. Woven fabric such as cotton corduroy can be used as uppers. Classified as breathable fabrics these help aeration.

Vamp
The vamp covers the dorsum of the foot (includes the tongue piece) and superior aspects over the toes. This section i.e. the toe puff is reinforced which serves to give the shoe its shape as well as protect the toes. The vamp is often made of more than one piece, creating a decorative pattern. There are various types of vamps suited to different styles of shoes.

Quarter
The complete upper part of the shoe behind the vamp line covering the sides and backpart. The top edge of the sides and back of the quarter describes the topline of the shoe. In athletic shoes the topline is often padded and referred to as a collar. The medial and lateral sections join in a seam at the posterior end of the shoe.
In Oxford style lacing shoes, the eyelet section is formed by the superior part of the quarter (while the underlying tongue is part of the vamp).
In the Gibson style the lacing segment forms part of the vamp. The heel section of the quarter is frequently reinforced with a stiffener. This helps support the rearfoot. In boots the quarter is often referred to as 'top'.
In the Bal method, the front edges of both quarters are stitched together and covered with the back edge of the vamp.
In the Blucher method the quarter panels are placed on top of the vamp, and the front edges are not sewn together. In comparison with the Bal method, the Blucher method permits the fitting of a larger foot girth by broadening the throat of the shoe. A convalescent shoe (open to toe) is a variation on the Blucher method in which the lacing extends to the front edge of the vamp. In athletic shoes the vamp and quarter panels are often one continuous piece of nylon or leather with additional leather pieces added to reinforce critical areas of the shoe. Reinforcement added to the region of the medial longitudinal arch are termed the saddle if it is added to the outside of the shoe or the arch bandage if it is added to the inside of the shoe.

The counter is a component of the quarter that stabilises the hindfoot in the shoe and retains the shape of the posterior portion of the shoe. Counters are usually made from fibreboard or heat moulded plastic. Foxing is an additional piece of leather that covers the counter externally. Sometimes a counter will extend medially to support the heel and prevent prolonged pronation. In some children's shoes and athletic footwear the stiffener is extended on the medial of the arch to provide an anti-pronatory wedge.
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Toecap
Many shoes incorporate a toecap into the upper of the shoe. Toecaps are either stitched over or completely replace the distal superior aspect of the vamp and can be made into a decorative features referred to as toe tips. The toe box refers to the roofed area over and around the part of the shoe that covers the toes. The function of the toe box is to retain the shape of the forefoot and allow room for the toes. The height and width of the toe box is dictated by shape of the last used to construct the shoe. Certain types of non-athletic and athletic footgear will offer extra depth in the toe box.

Linings
In quality shoes the quarters and vamps are lined to enhance comfort and durability. Linings may consist of various materials ie leathers, fabrics, and manmade synthetics. The lining on the insole segment is called 'the sock' and may be full-length, three-quarter or just the heel section. Many linings are made of syn-thetic material and are usually confined to the quarters and the insock.


Throat
The central part of the vamp just proximal to the toe box. The throat is formed by the seam joining the vamp to the quarter i.e. throatline. The position of the throat line depends on the construction of the shoe, for example a shorter vamp and longer quarters define a lower throat line. This gives a wider lower opening for the foot to enter the shoe. The throat is defined by the connection of the rear edge of the vamp and the front part of the quarter. The location of the throat will vary with the design of the shoe. Because the vamp and quarter panels are often one piece in the athletic shoe, the throat is at the eyestay. This refers to the point where the lacing is attached to the vamp. The throat of the shoe dictates the maximum girth permitted by the shoe.
The Sole of the Shoe
The term sole derives from 'solea' a Latin word meaning soil or ground.

Insole (inner sole)
A layer of material shaped to the bottom of the last and sandwiched between the outsole (or midsole) and the sole of the foot inside the shoe. The insole covers the join between the upper and the sole in most methods of construction and provides attachment for the upper, toe box linings and welting. This provides a platform upon which the foot can operate and separates the upper from the lower. The insole board is necessary in shoes that are constructed using cemented or Goodyear welt techniques because it is the attachment for upper and lower components. The majority of insole boards are made of cellulose and are treated with additives to inhibit bacterial growth. Athletic shoewear will often have a sockliner, a piece of material placed over the top of the insole board (glued in position or removable.

Outsole
This is the outer most sole of the shoe, which is directly exposed to abrasion and wear. Traditionally made from a variety of materials, the outsole is constructed in different thickness and degrees of flexibility. Ideal soling materials must be waterproof, durable and possess a coefficient of friction high enough to prevent slipping. Leather has poor gripping capabilities and synthetic polymers are much preferred. There are also an infinite variety of surface designs. Extra grip properties can be incorporated in the form of a distinctive sole pattern with well-defined ridges. Alternatively they can be moulded with cavities to reduce the weight of the sole. These cavities need to be covered with a rigid insole or can be filled with light foam to produce a more flexible sole. In some cases two or more materials of different densities can be incorporated into the sole to give a hard wearing outer surface and a softer, more flexible midsole for greater comfort. Synthetic soling materials will off the physical property of dampening down impact levels (shock attenuation).

Shank
The shank bridges between the heel breast and the ball tred. The shankpiece or shank spring can be made from wood, metal, fibreglass or plastic and consists of a piece approximately 10cm long and 1.5 cm wide. The shank spring lies within the bridge or waist of the shoe, i.e. between heel and ball corresponding to the medial and lateral arches. The shankpiece reinforces the waist of the shoe and prevents it from collapsing or distorting in wear. The contour of the shank is determined by heel height. Shoes with low heels or wedged soles do not require a shank because the torque between the rear and forefoot does not distort the shoe.

Heel
The heel is the raised component under the rear of the shoe. Heels consist of a variety of shapes, heights, and materials and are made of a series of raised platforms or a hollowed section. The part of the heel next to sole is usually shaped to fit the heel, this is called the heel seat or heel base. The heel breast describes front face of the heel. The ground contact section is called the top piece. Heels raise the rear of the shoe above the ground. A shoe without a heel or midsole wedge may be completely flat. When the heel section sits lower than the forefoot the style is called a 'negative heel'.

Welt
The strip of material which joins the upper to the sole. Most shoes will be bonded by Goodyear-welted construction. Some shoes use an imitation welt stitched around the top flat edge of the sole for decorative purposes, but it is not a functional part of the shoe.

Shoe Lasts and Metrology
Most shoes are made to a last. This is a foot model with dimensions and shape similar to the anatomical foot but sufficiently different to not be exact. Shoe fit and to some extent the last influences its durability.

Last
"The close relationship between a man and his shoe maker was based on the shared secret of the client's measurements. The statistics of clients were never disclosed."
Traditionally before mass production, the original shoemaker started the process by taking a footprint outline of the sole. He whittled or chiselled a wooden last from the print.

A last ( 'laest', Old English meaning footprint) was traditionally made from wood but are now available now in metal or plastic. They are complex structures made from many measurements (statistically determined). Lasts are not the same size and dimensions of the anatomical foot but instead an abstract form with specific functions. It is usually deeper in the midfoot region, has a sharp 'feather edge' where the upper surface meets the sole, is clipped in along the topline (around the ankle) and is flaired over and extended in the toe region. This provides shape, which applies appropriate tension when the shoe distorts to contain the loaded foot.

Lasts provides a working surface on which flat leather components can be given plastic form. The physical dimensions accommodate the foot during activity and the last contains contemporary fashion and styles such as toe shape. To allow the last to be removed from the shoe they are often hinged around the instep. Shoe lasts are not made to resemble feet but instead to suit the shoe manufacture. Modern lasts are totally unlike the foot with the sole of the last, flat in order to assist in manufacture. Shoe making was classified under three headings: turned shoes, welted shoes and through-seam shoes.

Turned shoe
The turned shoe is made inside out with only an outset sole between the foot and the ground. The upper and soles are very flexible. The last is designed in a single size and then a set is made in the range of sizes and widths in which shoes are to be manufactured. Marked sizes will vary slightly from one manufacturer to another. No longer a popular technique.

Welted Shoes
Any construction using a welting, either as an intrigal part of the construction or simply for imitative effect.

Through Seam Shoes
Anthropometry
Studies show over 90% of people have different sized feet. Despite feet being the same length other dimensions vary with the individual foot. Activity of the foot will also change the shape of identical feet in accordance with the structure and function of the appendage. The idea of a perfect fit is not a reality. Because distribution or proportions of foot mass differ with individuals, which mean linear measurement such as length and breadth of the foot alone, are inadequate. It is important shoemakers consider mass and volume of feet if an exact fit is to be afforded. To ensure a best fit, measurements are taken at strategic locations and the shoemaker uses both linear as well volume measurement to construct a shoe.

The modern last is made in three dimensions although it is not a direct replica of the foot. Instead it is made with production requirements, in mind. The lastmaker may take up to 35 measurements before the model last can be made. A shoe fitter may concentrate on length, ball width, heel, topline, arch and instep. The shoe is expected to wear well, feel well, keep its shape with wear, retain its style character, tread properly, allow for reasonable foot freedom, maintain both foot and shoe balance, remain structurally intact. These features are not always dependent on the quality of materials or components, or the manufacturing process. The design and multiple dimensions of the last provide the basis for the above.

Features built into a last include:
Measurements
The majority of measurements are volume rather than the traditional length and width associated with shoe fit.
Throat opening
The distance from the vamp point to the back seam tuck.
Length
The length measurement of the foot from the back of the heel to the tip of the longest toe.
Foot Girth
There are four girth and circumference measurements taken on a last. These are the ball, waist, instep and heel (back of heel to instep). Measurement requires careful assessment of the foot, which cannot be accomplished with the same precision as linear measurements. The modern last maker uses precision instruments to determine girth but the old shoemakers used the hand span to this same effect. Aspects of the foot were measured against the shoemaker's hand, the ball of the foot was compared to the girth between the thumb and the middle finger. The instep was measured between the thumb and the little finger. This method was subject to enormous variations depending upon the size of the shoemaker's hand.
*Ball girth This is the girth measurement around the ball of the last to determine the width and volume allowance inside the shoe.
* Waist girth The girth at the waist on the last.
* Instep girth The circumference around the foot at the instep.
* Heel girth The distance around the foot from the rear base of the heel to the top of the instep.

Recede Toe
This is the part of the last, which projects beyond the tip of the toes forming the rounded contour of the front of the shoe. A tapering recede such as in todays sharp shoes increases the overall length of the shoe. In a poorly designed last the recede may encroach on the toes increasing tension on the ends of the toes. This may be referred to as tight lasting.

Heel-to-ball
This dictates the position of the hinge of the forefoot (metatarsal phalangeal joints) and the widest part of the shoe (across the metatarsal heads).

Toe Spring
This describes the elevation of the undersurface of the sole at the toe to give a slight rocker effect to the shoe. The amount of toe spring (built into the last) depends on the shoe style, sole thickness and heel height. This is built into the last design and compensates for the stiffness of the footwear and provided a stress free take off into propulsion. The more rigid the soling material the greater the toe spring. Many shoes will also display a slight heel spring.
Tread
This describes the width across the sole under the ball of the last and it should correspond to the dimension of the feet. The tread point on the last represents the bottom forepart just behind the ball and in contact with the base plane.

Flare
This describes the curve or contour of the last. The swing is determined by the position of the forepart when the last is bisected longitudinally forwards from the centre of the heel arc. With In inflare lasts there is an inward medial swing to the forepart and most modern shoes are made on an inflare last (banana last) because it is thought shoes are more comfortable. An outflare last describes the opposite with the swing lying to the lateral side of the forepart. Sometimes used in bespoke footwear for infants with diagnosed foot development problems. Straights last describe neither an inflare or outflare preference. The long axis of the last when drawn through the bisection of the heel curve describes two equal longitudinal halves. The normal foot has a straight axis and hence straight lasted shoes can be worn on either foot. Prior to the introduction of machinery to make heeled shoes it was common to have shoe made with a straight flare until the turn of the twentieth century.

Methods of Shoe Construction
There are many ways to attach the sole to the upper but commercially only a few methods are preferred. Shoes were traditionally made by moulding leather to a wooden last. Modern technology has introduced many new materials and mechanised much of the manufacture. Remarkable as it may seem the manufacture of shoes remains fairly labour intensive. No matter the type of construction the first stage in construction is to attach the insole to the undersurface of the last. Two main operations follow : Lasting describes the upper sections are shaped to the last and insole. Followed by Bottoming, where the sole is attached to the upper. The process of bottoming will determine price, quality and performance of the shoe.


Cement
Alernative names include:'Stuck on construction' (UK) and the 'Compo Process'.

For lightweight and flexible footwear the outsole is stuck to the upper by an adhesive. Bonwelt is a variation with its distinguishing feature being a strip of welting attached by stitching or cementing to the top edge of the insole. The shoe is then flat lasted. This is not a true welt construction wherein the welt is attached to the rib of the insole.

Goodyear Welt
For high quality dress and town shoes the top section (or welt) is chain stitched to the upper and insole rib at the point where it curves under the last. This is supplemented by a lockstitch outseam bonding the welt and outsole. The outsole is then sewn to the welt around the edge. Goodyear Welt creates heavier less flexible footwear.

Stitchdown
Alernative names include: Veldt or veldschoen
A cheaper method used to produce lightweight flexible soles for children's shoes and some casual footwear describes the upper turned out (flanged) at the edge of the last. This is then stitched to the runner. In some countries it is known as 'veldt' and 'veldtschoen.'

Mocassin
Thought to be the oldest shoe construction this consists of a single layer section, which forms the insole, vamp and quarters. The piece is moulded upwards from the Under surface of the last. An apron is then stitched to the gathered edges of the vamp and the sole is stitched to the base of the shoe. This method is used for flexible fashion footwear. The imitation moccasin has a visual appearance of a moccasin but does not have the wrap around construction of the genuine moccasin.


Moulded Methods
The lasted upper is placed in a mould and the sole formed around it by injecting liquid synthetic soling material (PVC, urethane). Alternatively, the sole may be vulcanised by converting uncured rubber into a stable compound by heat and pressure. When the materials in the moulds cool the sole-upper bonding is complete. These methods combine the upper permanently into the sole and such shoes cannot therefore be repaired easily. Moulded methods can be used to make most types of footwear.

Force Lasting
Alternative names include:The Strobel-stitched method (or sew in sock)

Force lasting has evolved from sport shoes but is increasingly used in other footwear. The Strobel-stitched method (or sew in sock) describes one of many force lasting techniques. The upper is sewn directly to a sock by means of an overlooking machine (Strobel stitcher) The upper is then pulled (force lasted) onto a last or moulding foot. Unit soles with raised walls or moulded soles are attached to completely cover the seam. This technique is sometimes known as the Californian process or slip lasting.


Shoe Styles
According to Rossi (1997) there are eight basic footwear styles with the rest made up as variations on the basic themes. To comply with definition a shoe describes footwear with a mechanism capable of holding the foot in the heel of the shoe to facilitate support during push off. Hence there are two critical aspect of shoes i.e.. the band around the instep and the section corresponding to the human heel. To prevent unnecessary movement these need to be firm and fit the foot.

Boot
Any footwear extending above the ankle. There are numerous designs and types for a variety of uses and made from a number of materials.

Clog
A thick soled wooden shoe sometimes with leather upper.

Lace Up ( 2 types ):
-Oxford Shoe
-Derby Style
Any low cut shoe fastened by lacings, such as an Oxford or Blucher.

Moccasin
The term moccasin originates from the Algonquian language for foot covering. The Algonquians were any of several North American Indian tribes formerly inhabiting the region along the Ottawa River and near the northern tributaries of the St. Lawrence River. The oldest
form of shoe dates back to 14,000 years and was thought to originate from the Mongol tribes who migrated along the Bering Strait into North America.

Originally it described a simple one-piece hide, wrapped round the foot and held on with rawhide thongs. Later the Indians gradually stylised the moccasin by adding the moccasin plug, fringes and coloured beads, which depicted rank and occupation. Today moccasin shoes usually describe imitation moccasins, which had their origins in Norway.

The Norwegian Peasant Slip-on (or weejun) was first imported to the US by tourists in the 1930s and later Gucci made a leather loafer in refined calfskin with a metal snaffle bit across the instep. Soon loafers were available in the spectator style (two colours). By the 50s Penny Loafers were all the rage with the campus Ivy League of the US. Made in ox blood they were also
known as the Norwegian slipper. The Low vamp loafer was designed for females and was made from soft kid leather and cut low.

Mule
A backless shoe or slipper with or without a heel.

Sandal ( 3 types ):
- Hieroglyphics
- Sport Sandals
- Casuals
Originally a slab of leather sole attached to the foot by thongs. Today any open
shoe who's upper consists of any decorative or functional arrangement of straps. A sandal can be foot low to knee high, or with any heel height, designed for simple utility or casual wear or as a
fashion shoe.


Monks
Similar to Derby Shoes but with a cross over section to fasten the quarters with a side buckle.

Pumps
Heeled shoes with low cut fronts and usually no fastening.

Shoe Size System
A continual frustration to many who care for the foot weary is the absence of a standard shoe size system. Although metrology and reliable measurements have been in existence for approximately two hundred years, the concept of a shoe sizing system is relatively recent. Shoe sizing systems based on standard metrological measurements have been in existence for just over 100 years but shoes made in half sizes have only been available half that time.

As part of the protection many craftsmen operated in early times, shoes were individually coded. Like a painter signing the canvas, shoemakers marked the inside of the shoe with their persona codes. This deliberately kept the size a secret from the customer and virtually ensured their return for new shoes. This is still in evidence today and many manufacturers maintain individual size systems in order to promote customer loyalty. The first US record of shoes marked with sizes dates back to between 1860 and 1870. The procedure soon followed in England. It was only full sizes recorded (half sizes did not appear until the late 1880s). In 1886 the Hanan Shoe Co. were the first manufacturer to stamp their name on their shoes. In 1888 the first fitting stool was introduced to the trade by Sollers Shoe Manufacturing Co., Philadephia.

The Shoe Stick
The origin of shoe sticks date back to antiquity. They were described in Ancient Egypt, Rome and Greece and used by shoe and sandal makers. For centuries there was no shoe size standards or systems and each craftsman was free to use his own method. It was common to use their own bodies particularly their hands as gauges. An English yard for example was the length of the arm i.e. shoulder to fingertips or sometimes nose to fingertips.

The problem was not everyone was the same size and when a human foot was used to measure footage of land, much depended on the size of the individual as to how much the purchaser bought and the seller sold. In Rome, the inch (which was one twelfth of a foot) measured the width across the interphalangeal joint of the thumb.

By the 7th century in England, the barleycorn became a standard measurement with three ears of corn, laid end to end, equalling one inch. It took until the thirteenth century before the inch was officially sanctioned. Under pressure, Edward II (r. 1307-27) eventually succumbed to appeals from scholars and tradesmen to issue a decree to standardise measurement (Ledger, 1985).

Henceforth an English inch was the distance measured across three barleycorns taken from the centre of the ear and placed end to end equalled an inch. Thirty nine (39) barleycorns laid end to end became a foot and 117 laid end to end became a yard. Whilst the barleycorn decree of Edward II had nothing to do with shoe sizes per se many shoemakers began to use shoe sticks. Tradesmen had traditionally used the handspan method of measurement, which preferred the quarter of an inch unit, but after the introduction of the barleycorn measure, many began to adopt the third of an inch unit. With 39 barley corns approximating the length of a normal foot, this was graded size 13 and became the largest shoe size. Other sizes were graded down by 1/3 rd of an inch or one barleycorn. It took until 1850 before the first uniform shoe stick using the English size system appeared. Ironically this took place in France and shoe sticks were not accepted in North America, until after 1900.Today shoes are marked according to one of three different length sizing systems depending on where the shoes were made. The three major systems are United Kingdom, American and Continental (or Paris Point):

UK System
The first description of a shoe sizing system was made and recorded by British genealogist Randle Holme in the Academy of Armory and Blazon in 1688.
The UK System starts from zero, at 102 mm with 8.4mm (1/4 ") between whole sizes (4.2mm between half sizes).
Adults sizes range from size 1 to size 15 (equivalent to 12").
The UK System for children is divided into 13 parts. Sizes start at five inches long and every fourth part of an inch thereafter until, size 12. Size 13 or short 13 and consists of length of 8 inches and a quarter. This also starts the Adult size 1.

Third Inch Scale (Barley Corn):2-5-8-1-4-7-0-3-6-9
UK System Quarter Inch Scale:
Child Sizes :0-5.25-5.5-5.75-6.0-6.25-6.75-7.0-7.25-7.5-7.75-8.0-8.25-8.5
Adult Sizes:8.5-8.75-9.0-9.25-9.5-9.75-10.0-10.25-10.5-10.75-11.0-11.25-11.5-11.75-12

Children's Shoes
Until the time of Queen Victoria , children's shoes were made as miniature adult shoes, with no special feature for growing feet. The children of the Middle Class in Victorian times wore shoe styles more akin to fancy dress which may account for why the design of today's shoes contain motifs which refer to previous ages and classic periods of history. Going barefoot is still within living memory and many children went without footwear as a normal practice and not through poverty. Work shoes were often handed down with the better off wearing them before passing them to siblings.

It is not clear why a unit of 13 was used to judge a critical point between child sizes and adults. The origins of this remain clouded but there are several theories. It is understood early English shoemakers started with the smallest size (0 or 1) at four inches. Four inches was an easy measure to record because it was the width across the knuckles which happened to correspond to the size of a child's foot needing their first pair of shoes. By coincidence 4.22 " measured 13 barleycorns. The next easy measure was the span of the hand or 9". Measure across the knuckles (4") plus the span of the hand (9") gave 13". This measured the average length of a child's foot at puberty. Adult sizes would logically start at the end of the child's size. Another belief is based on a foot measuring practice at the time.

Some historians believe shoemakers accepted 13 as the base unit for measuring feet. The shoemaker's size stick was twelve inches long with the units measured from zero. This meant twelve became thirteen. There have been several attempts to standardise measurements of shoes and adopt the quarter inch unit, however arguments have always failed due to costs and problems of changing to a new system. As early as the seventeenth century, according to Holme, a "guild of shoemakers" had agreed on a common size scale based on a quarter inch rather than the third of inch. However little had changed by the nineteenth century when Gardener described in 1856 a shoe sizing system based on one-third inch, scale. The barleycorn , for all its metrological shortcomings, continues to be used in both American and English sizing systems.

American System
The first shoe sizing system with detailed proportional measurements for lasts and shoes came from North America. The instigator, Edwin B Simpson of New York, prepared the first chart of standardised last measurements in 1880. This included shoe widths but it was another seven years before the Retail Boot and Shoe Dealer's National Association adopted the system. Much of the impetus to introduce a size system had arisen during the American Civil War (1861-65) where mass produced shoes were made in left and rights for the first time. As the main shoe manufacturers were in the North then orders for soldiers required a size system. To make it easier for the Army to order shoes for their servicemen, each soldier was allocated a shoe size as well as a nametag. Despite the availability of inflare footwear, these were not comfortable and many complained. The Confederacy fought barefoot. Right and left shoes were not commercially available for another half century. Although North America legalised the use of the metric system the industry did not adopt it as the only means. Regular reviews of regulation have meet similar non-compliance. Consequently there remains little standardisation of shoe sizes within the US. Ironically the industry continues to use Imperial measurements and each manufacturer determines how large a certain size will be. The only standardisation is each full size is 1/3 of an inch longer than the previous size. Women's shoes are marked 1 1/2 sizes different than men's (a size 9 women's shoe is equal in length to a size 7 1/2 men's shoe). In the American (or Standard) System the first number in the code represents the width (1 = A, 2 = B) The second number followed by a zero denotes the whole size: when the second number is followed by a 5 it indicates a half size.


UK :1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-10-11-12-13
US:1.5-2.5-3.5-4.5-5.5-6.5-7.5-8.5-9.5-10.5-11.5-12.5-13.5
PP:33-34-35.5-36.5-38-39.3-40.5-42-43-44.5-46-47-48
Mondo:220-227-236-245-252-260-270-278-286-298-305-312-320mm10.75

Continental System (Paris Point metric)
The Europeans used a metric system and hence each full size (or two thirds of a centimetre) is less than a full size but more than the half size. North America is one of the few countries, which is still using imperial measurement whereas most other countries have adopted a metric system. Gabriel Mouton, a French vicar, first introduced the metric system in 1670. In 1801 after several modifications the French officially adopted the measurement system. The French system does not support half sizes. Infant sizes start at size 15 (equivalent to 0) and each size then progresses by two thirds of a centimetre. By 1875 several nations had got together to discuss adoption of the Paris Point System and whilst countries like North America legalised the use of the metric system, the industry refused to adopt it as the only means.

Mondo Point
This was a proposed international shoe sizing system based on the metric system. The idea originated in Australia and was intended to replace English, French, Italian and other size systems. Mondopoint provided a uniform system of shoe sizes among the nations of the world. The sizes were based on millimetres. Shoes were described as 255/98 or 255 millimetres long and 98 millimetres broad. Sizes progressed from the smallest to the largest, from children's through to adults without interruption. Foot size was determined with the person weight bearing.

Width Fitting
Shoe width represents both the linear and girth measurements at the ball, and is determined by the last. Several standard and width fittings are available in the UK size system to accommodate differences in three-dimensional girth. In women's shoes, A is the narrowest and G the widest. For children the range is A to H; and for men it is from 1-8. The girth increase between fittings is normally 6.5mm. Most lines are only available in one size usually women's D and men's 4. The girth around the ball of the foot of the foot increases by 5mm for whole sizes up to children's size 101/2 and 6.5mm for whole sizes above this. In the American system it is two less, eg AAA is the equivalent to the UK A. There is no equivalent Continental width fitting system and the shoes are generally narrower than in the UK. In the American (or Standard) System the first number in the code represents the width (1 = A, 2 = B) The second number followed by a zero denotes the whole size: when the second number is followed by a 5 it indicates a half size. In the American (Arithmetic standard width measurement) this ranges from AAAAA to EEEEEE.

Assessing Footwear
Most clients attend for treatment wearing dress shoes, which are not always their normal footgear. In those situations where shoe costume and foot are considered incompatible, practitioners may tactfully request the client bring the footwear worn for the majority of the working day. In situations where client's shoes contribute to subjective symptoms but no apparent conscious acceptance is obvious then the practitioner may accept the clients personal choice is a life style decision. Adverse shoe conditions can excite pathologies, compromise prognosis and inhibit satisfactory practice but the choice of footwear always remains with the client. Under these circumstances negotiated care is required where neither party is compromised.

It is important to ascertain a client's shoe wearing habits. Information about when, where, and how often shoes are bought can be very useful. To avoid a 'halo effect', however, assessment should involve tact and sensitivity, combined with a healthy scepticism. People will often report shoe-wearing habits they consider appropriate to a healthy life style especially in the presence of a foot physician. When gathering information tolerance is a virtue, with discretion and understanding essential assets. A sad fact in this day and age is not everyone can afford shoes, especially where multiple children are involved.

People buy shoes to meet specific purposes and all gain benefit from well informed advice. Most obtain perfectly adequate footwear from general or specialised retail outlets. For some, shoes require minor modification to accommodate specific requirements, such as a short leg, whereas a small minority need shoes made specifically to fit their feet ie. bespoke footwear. Made for feet shoes are classified as modular ie a type of footwear fabricated using stock lasts to which minor adjustments can be made; and True, bespoke footwear, which is, made form a customed last. These are available privately or with assistance from medical funds when prescribed. Mass produced or stock footwear is available single size/width or half size multi-width fittings. The former is usual for adult sizes and the latter more common in children shoes.

A list of good habits is in itself inappropriate and it is important to have reference to an appropriate portfolio ie shoe catalogue and suppliers if you wish to inform clients. Most fashion shoes are bought in self-service outlets, including the World Wide Web. Socio-economics determine the vast majority of shoe buyers can ill afford quality footwear associated with personal fitting or made to measure footwear. Most people prescribed orthopaedic footwear require some financial assistance.

Problems with fit
The problems are rarely single and often are multifactorial. Asymmetry and anatomical variation mean challenges for people seeking ideal fit. The style and pattern of a shoe bear an influence on size. The distribution of mass or volume within the shoe affects size and fit. The height of the heel can affect deportment and function, hence the shape of the foot. Shoe types such as fashion footwear and work boots may be fitted with a bit more size allowance than the slightly snugger fit of an elegant fashion or dress shoe. The type of shoe construction can bare an influence. e.g. welts, cements, slip lasted, stitchdown, injection-moulded etc, will show slight differences in fit on the foot. Some manufacturers or brands apply their own particular specifications of dimensions on their lasts e.g. backpart, forepart, tread, etc. and this makes a difference in fit among different brands on a given size. The foot fitted in the morning will be smaller than the foot fitted in the afternoon. Toe shape of the shoe may influence the fit. Shoes with narrower toes may need to be worn a half size longer (when available).

Discussion
The concept of shoe fit is largely a subjective and person al matter on the part of the fitter or the customer or both. Size alone is not the only determining factor. Research form the Battelle Institute has shown there are at least 38 individual factors influencing or involved in shoe fit. Many of the 38 factors were subjective involving the opinion and attitudes of consumer and fitter alike. In the end it was the customer who determined whether the shoe fitted or not.

References
Hughes JR (1995) Footwear assessment In Merrimen LM, & Tollafield DR (eds) Assessment of the lower limb Ediburgh:Churchill Livingstone 227-247.
Lord M & Pratt DJ Foot therapy In Tollafield DR & Merriman LM (eds) Clinical skills in treating the foot Edinburgh: Churchill Livingstone 249-266.
McPhoil TG 1988 Footwear Physical Therapy 68:12 1857-1865.
Rossi WA 1993 The sex life of the foot and shoe Malabar: Kreiger Publishing Company.
Rossi WA 2000 The complete footwear dictionary (2nd edition) Malabar: Kreiger Publishing Co.
Vass L & Molnar M 1999 Handmade shoes for men Cologne: Konemann.

Further Reading
Belanger R 1997 Big black boots: how to pick the right size
Byrne M Curran MJ 1998 The development and use of a footwear assessment score in comparing the fit of children's shoes The Foot 8 215-218. Ceeny E The form of the foot in relation to footwear The Chiropodist 304-311.
Foot Fitter Genovation
Gardener R 1856 The illustrated handbook of the foot London
Ledger FE 1985 Put your foot down: A treatise on the history of shoes Melksham: Coin Velton.
Manning JR 1966 Size standardisation: Europoint The Chiropodist 21:6 187-200. Mondopoint: A metric system of shoe sizing and marking Australian Podiatrist August 1976 102-103.

Petrus Camper (1722-1789) on the Shoe translated by Dr Miriam Meijer, Mongomery College, USA
The Brannock Device
The true story of shoe sizes New York: Sterlinglast Corp 1977

QUALITY CONTROL GUIDANCE

1. UPPER MATERIALS - LEATHER
Leather parts at vamp & toe with loose-grain or finish … finish peeling
Leather with "orange peel" finish … pipe … grainy
Leather torn … cut … nicked
Visual leather defects in vamp or toe cap area
Distinct color deviations / discoloration
Edges not dyed or dyed with wrong color
Long fibered (suede) leather
Color crocking
Leather cut in wrong stretch
Leather under lays not skived correctly creating visible "x-raying"

2. UPPER MATERIALS - SHYNTETIC / TEXTILE
Distinct color deviations / discoloration
Weave faults (i.e. clubs; surface not uniform; loose weave)
Delamination
Materials cut in wrong direction / stretch

3. SKIVING & MARKING UPPER MATERIALS
Skiving quality (reduction thickness / skive width) not to standard

4. STITCHING
Incorrect needle type or size
Stitching not locked
Broken stitches
Stitch length under 3 per 1 cm or over 5 per 1 cm
Stitching not to standard over a distance of more than 2 cm
Edge distance of more than 2.5 mm
One stitch of the edge
Loose thread tension on upper
Tongue placed 3 mm or more off center
3 stripe stitches more than 2 mm out of place, visible crocked

5. THREAD / THREAD ENDS
Thread not according to material specification
Thread ends in excess of 2 mm

6. LINING
Heel (collar) lining poorly (too much / too little) or inconsistently turned (folded) over
Lining cemented wrinkles causing pressure points / aesthetics
Lining too short , does not reach under lasting board
Lining damaged
Wrong color or material used (not to specification)
Open stitching or loose lining ends

7. MOLDED UPPER COMPONENTS / LOGO THREATMENTS
Eyelet's, hooks, triangles, rivets, lace locks, speed laces, ghillies missing or damaged (sharp edges) or not to material specification
Plastic or metal parts, trims … damaged … incorrectly positioned, attached, or not to material specification (too soft, discoloration, sharp edges)
Emboss and / or screen print not correctly processed, with unclear definition or incorrectly positioned
Quality of PVC / rubberized print (or any) logo treatment not correctly processed, with unclear definition or incorrectly positioned
Quality of embroidery not clearly defined (wrong thread … poor stitching program … thread tension … quantity of stitches)




8. POOR TOE LASTING
Toe height / vamp length differences of more than 3 mm
Distorted shape (off - center) toe / vamp lasting
Wrinkles of folds visible on outsole sidewall caused by wrinkled lasting



9. POOR SIDE LASTING
Upper is not fitting tightly to the last
Wrinkles or creases noticeable in the shank or quarter

10. HEEL LAST ING / HEEL COUNTER (INSIDE) / BACK PART MOLDING
Wrong heel counter number or size (too small / too large)
Counter deformed, edges folded causing pressure points
Counter not caught under lasting board
Counter placed off center

11. BACK STAY OFF CENTER / CROOKED
Back stay noticeably crooked , or greater than 3 mm

12. BACK (HEEL) & QUARTER (COLLAR) HEIGHTS
Greater than 3 mm higher or lower than requested standard
Logo heights or heel pieces that exceed 3 mm

13. EYESTAY MIS-ALIGNED / CROOKED
Eyestay or throat miss-aligned by more than 3 mm

14. ROUGHING (UPPER)
Under roughing
Over roughing ± 1.0 mm badly repaired / not repaired
Roughing that damages are the fiber structure of the material

15. OUTSOLE MARKING / CEMENTING / PRIMIMG-MIDSOLES, OUTSOLES, LASTED UPPERS
Over cementing / over priming @1.0 - 2.0 mm / badly repaired

16. SOLE LAYING 9OFF – CENTER / CROOKED)
Bottom unit incorrectly positioned

17. POOR ADHESION
Outsole to mid sole
Outsole to upper
Mid sole to upper
Torsion bar to mid sole or outsole
Heel-stabilizer to mid sole or outsole or upper
Inlayed component parts / directly injected with sole
Poor bonding of any components that should be firmly cemented together

18. OUTSOLE STITCHING (ARRIANCE STITCH)
Stitch length more than 2 mm for adults and 1 mm for children from below mentioned standard
Stitch length adult 8-10 mm / stitch
Stitch length children 6-8 mm / stitch
Broken stitches
Out of channel
Poor tension / tight tension
Stitch ends before channel end
Thread not cemented to insole board and sock liner (minimum 5 cm)
Cup sole stitching thread not stuck down with tape in the case of removable inlay sole


9. INLAYSOLE
Wrong inlay sole pattern
Wrong size (too long / too short)
Inlay sole not bonded
Delamination of inlay sole cover
Wrinkled or rolled
Inlay sole thickness differs by more than 0.5 mm from the specification
Inlay sole hardness differs by more than 5 points from the specification
Screen or transfer printing peel off
Color variation between pairs
Soiled or stained

20. ARCH COOKIE
Wrong size arch cookie
Arch cookie loose or incorrectly positioned


21. COLOUR VARIATION - UPPER, MIDSOLE, COMPONENTS
Any noticeable variation within a pair of shoe that would cause customer return
Colors that do not match approved samples or scotdic / pantone#

22. OUTSOLE / FOXING / BUMPE APPEARANCE / CLEANLINESS
Color is not matching between shoes in a pair
Color not matching scotdic / pantone# & signed confirmation sample
Under to over cured rubber
Shore hardness more / less than ± 3 points of specification
Delamination (no bonding) of different rubber segments
Shininess of outsole
Exudations or visible film on the sole surface or blooming
Excessive color bleeding
Sole more than 2 mm too long or too short
Excessive color migration sepecially on cup / sidewall
Specified non-marking sole which is actually marking
Poor or excessive repair for color migration … paint peeling, loose
Repair paint color does not match
Poor outsole trimming

23. MIDSOLE , FOOTBED APPEARANCE / CLEANLINESS
Color is not matching between shoes in pair
Color not matching scotdic / pantone# & signed confirmation sample
Distinct mid sole wedge adhesive line
Two or more air bubbles 1.5 mm in diameter or more
Nick and / or scars in molded mid sole longer than 2 mm
Adhesive, primer, spoilage, stains on sidewall
Shore hardness more than ± 3 points of specification
Excessive concentration of pin holes
Mid sole thickness or length more than ± 2 mm from spec
Angle of level (provile contour) significantly different than confirmation sample
Excessive under cut
Paint feeling or loose
Top line of molded EVA thickness > 1 mm due to poor trimming or blowing
Molded EVA sidewalls heavily wrinkled
Discoloration

24. CLEATED
Tacks, studs, spikes or rivets missing
Damaged rivets, studs or spikes
Receptacles, rivets, insole tacks not clenched properly
Studs, spikes inserted skewed (not at 90 degrees to the insole / outsole)
Shank reinforcement missing (lydall board)
Galvanized rivets not used
Screw in studs not tight
Key wrench must be functional and matching confirmation

25. SOILING
One or more soiling or cement stains more than 3 mm in diameter or an excessive amount of smaller stains
Visible marking lines
Non repairable cement stains or soiling up to 1 cm in diameter must be B-graded
Non repairable cement stains or soiling over 1 cm in diameter must be C-graded

26. PACKING
Bonding of box flaps
Damaged shoe box
Distinct shade variation of shoe box to standard
Distinct variation between lid and shoe box
Shoe box print not clearly / fully defined
Wrong size of the shoe box (too small or too large)
Barcode label and inner box contents are not identical

27. ODD SHOES / HANG TAG
Right and left foot shoe not one correct pair (different back heights, vamp lengths etc.)
Different size left & right foot
Shoes / size labels do not correspond exactly to bar-code label
Hangtag / technical manual missing
Appearance and print quality of hangtag, technical manual not clean
Missing accessories

28. LACES
Shoe lace length either too long or too short
Shoe laces not as specified
Shoe lace color not matching confirmation

29. OTHER DEFECTS
Other items which influences the comfort and durability, or the use of the shoes



FINAL INSPECTION DEFECTS CLASSIFICATION


DEFINITION OF "A", "B", "C" GRADES
A-GRADE PRODUCTS:
Shoes with no functional or cosmetics defects that will impair the marketability of the shoes.
B-GRADE PRODUCTS:
Shoes that have no major functional defects, and will not cause injury to the person wearing the shoes for the intended sport. The product does have cosmetic defects, that cannot be properly repaired.
C-GRADE PRODUCTS:
Shoes have major functional defects which could cause injury to wearer, or major cosmetic defects that cannot be repaired. Shoes are also considered C-Grade, if they have poor quality workmanship or material that could shorten the normal life of adidas reputation.

REMARK
Pressure points inside the shoes are always C-Grade(s)
Defects in the "Cleated Category" which cannot be eliminated completely are C-Grade(s)
The factory retains responsibility for compensation claims addressed to adidas except for specific incidents agreed by both parties

ASSEMBLING

A. HEEL COUNTER INSERTING

Before inserting heel counter we must understand the type and grouping of heel counter. We also to know discrepancy between left and right heel counter.

Lining and upper material must be coated with cement in the whole area where the heel counter is placed. Heel counter has to dip with correct cement.

The heel counter must be inserted straight, not too high and not too low. Correction are not possible after inserting and molding.

B. HEEL COUNTER MOLDING

Important: Sizes of uppers, heel counters and molds must fit.

The molding must be done properly. The upper must straightly be pulled down and held until male and female molds are closed with the upper in between. A mirror should be placed at the machine in such a way, that the operator can control the backside of the mold.

The heel mold must correspond to shape and size of the heel counter.

C. ATTACHING STROBEL INSOLE BOARD

After heel counter inserted to the upper, heel lining and heel cap will be stitched together.

D. ATTACHING INSOLE BOARD TO THE LAST

The thickness of shank / insole boards has to met requirement mentioned on model specification sheet. Insole board and shank board will be attached using hot melt and then press. We have to check the temperature of hot melt machine and the type of hot melt.

After that insole board which already attached with shank board will be attached to the last. Last and insole board must be fit and attached correctly.

E. LACING UPPERS

To make sure that the upper acquires the correct width during the following lasting process, it has to be laced with a corresponding lacing clip or an adequate lacing tool in the accurate width.
In case of low cut articles uppers normally can be laced from the 2nd hole of the eyelet opening throat point. For men’s size 4 holes are to be laced, the ladies’ sizes need 3 holes laced.
Exception in regard to the design and pattern are always possible.

F. LASTING

In general, all production are forced to use lasting machines with hot melting facilities for all lasting operations.

Modern lasting methods guarantee exact bonding of the uppers to the insoles. This bond remains durable even when the shoe passes through cement dyers and heat setters with temperatures of up to 60O C and need 10 second for good bonding quality. Important to check upper position (must be center) before lasting.

G. TOE MOULDING

Leather uppers must be prepared for the stress of the lasting operations. Therefore the forefoot area must be moistened by using a toe moulding apparatus.

The moisture makes the leather softer and Suppler. The upper more precisely take the shapes of the last and the leather grain does not break during the lasting process.


H. HEAT SETTING

During the various board lasting operations, the upper is stretched over the last with lasting pincers and other tools in the lasting machines in multi directional pulls.

It must be guaranteed that the lasted shoes keep exactly the shape of the last. Shrinkage after lasting means an unacceptable loss of fit for the shoe.

The temperature and time of the equipment must be strictly regulated depending on the determined instructions and the positive result of the heat setting process must be controlled randomly.

I. SHOE MARKING

All articles with a shell or half shell soles need to be marked.

In order to achieve accurate marking, the original soles which will be attached on the shoes later on have to be used for doing the marking.

The shoes marked have to be checked for accurate marking at regular intervals. Inaccurately marked shoes cause either over roughing or under roughing.

J. ROUGHING

Roughing should never weaken too much the fiber structure of the leather, because this automatically would lead to material breakage when the shoe is worn.

Besides the inner edge of the lasting margin has to be roughed down to zero from outside to inside an a wedged-shapes way, so that he stair-like transition at the lasting margin end is removed.

After roughing the lasted shoe must be cleaned carefully in order to avoid poor bonding.

K. FIRST CEMENT COATING

The Pur-based cement has to be mixed with 5% hardener and has to be properly stirred shortly before processing.

The cement hardener mixture has to be processed within 2 hours in order to avoid the negative effects of a beginning chemical reaction.

Procedure for second cement coating corresponds to First Cement Coating

The soles have to be cemented simultaneously with the shoes. The cementing of the soles has also to be done completely and evenly.

Special attention is necessary that pasting is effective for the shell soles up to the top edge and for flat soles to the outer edge.

L. ATTACHING SOLES

Before soles can be attached, they must be activated.

The soles have to be positioned beginning on the toe area to the heel in an exactly straight way. Stretching, twisting or compressing the soles automatically leads to deformation.

M. PRESSING SOLES

The soles have to be pressed on the shoes immediately after being attached otherwise the activated cement becomes to cold, so that an intensive bonding between soles and lasted shoes cannot be achieved anymore.

N. COOLING

To consolidate he shape given to the upper during lasting operation the shoes are subjected to a process of cooling after the soles are attached.

The temperature of this operation has to be strictly regulated and controlled.
O. CLEANING OF SHOES

All cement stains, visible markings, stains or any kind of dirt inside and outside the shoes have to be removed.

P. PRESSING RECEPTACLE FOR SCREW IN STUDS

In order to avoid pressure points the inserted receptacles must be properly countersunk into the insole. Insufficiently countersunk receptacles cause severe injuries to the player’s feet. Shoes with this defect must be destroyed.

Q. PRESSING RIVETS

The rivets have to be accurately positioned into the grooves of the outsoles, which are molded for this purpose. The correct length of the rivets is of deciding importance.

CUTTING

A. INCOMING MATERIAL INSPECTION
All materials from warehouse must be checked and ensure that warehouse department sends the right materials, and cutting department has to check that there is “released” sticker on materials.
If there are any color grouping, cutting dept. has to inform other dept (stitching, assembly, and packing)

B. CUTTING PREPARATION

Leather Storage
Materials from warehouse should be prepared and stored according to the standard for each type of materials.
1. Leather need to be protected from the sunlight, otherwise the leather will be yellowing.
2. The temperature can’t be too high, otherwise the chemical in material will come out.
3. It is better hanging the leather than rolling leather in the leather storage , so wrinkles or creases can be avoided.

Cutting Dies Inspection
In order to make the cutter have high performance the cutting template the most important preparation process before cutting. It can help the cutter avoid the defective.
Cutting Dies Inspection :
· Check the size of the cutting die to see whether it is fit with the pattern.
· Check the horizontality the cutting die on the cutting board or glass.
· Inspect the cutting dies quality through both sound and vision.

Machines Adjustment
1. The optimal distance between cutting die and cutting board is 8 – 10 mm
2. Always set the pressure to zero after every shift finishing and when every shift starting need to reset the pressure in order to avoid any cutting board and any cutting dies damages.

MATERIAL TYPE :

v Leather
Checking with the leather before cutting is necessary to the cutter. Cutter must check quality cutting area with correct stretch, without defective and loose grain. Each type of leather have to be stored separately. Leather normally stretches by arrow, but some special parts are soft and can stretch four directions. So cutter must try to pull leather in order to know leather stretching before cutting.

v PU, Textile, Foam
Every roll from warehouse should be prepared according to the standard number of layer for each type of material, example :
Ø Super tuff : 4 Layer
Ø Cosmo : 6 Layer
Ø Meriskin : 2 Layer
Ø Foam 4.30 : 4 Layer
Ø Foam 8.50 : 2 Layer
Ø Canvas 6oz : 4 Layer
Ø H. Nylex : 4 Layer
Ø Nylon : 5 Layer
Ø LS : 2 Layer
Ø Bontex : 3 Layer





C. LEATHER QUALITY
Leather can be divided into 6 parts, each part has different quality level with each area of the whole leather due to different structure.
v Back
Firm structure, high quality
This area is the most valuable part with the best fiber structure and very view elasticity.

v Shoulder
Worse than the back part because of natural construction.

v Neck
Similar with the leg position, has a little soft, multi-wrinkle.

v Belly
The muscular fiber is longer than the other parts, so the skin is soft, extensible, easy getting loose grain. This position often causes by movement and has some special structure.

v Leg
Similar with the belly material, not has a great value, used for less quality-required components.

v Flank
Soft, multi-wrinkle at armpit and hamstring position. Very soft, serious wrinkle, loose grain. Normally, we cannot cut any components from this area.


D. DEFECT ON LEATHER
Natural defect
v Warble damage holes on scars caused by the grub of warble fly
v Scratchy scars caused by wide, and fighting
v Disease produce a rough are on the skin
v Growth marks, lines in the neck and shoulder areas, more pronounced in older animals
Processing
v Flay cuts caused during of flesh leave the skin weakened
v Brand mark

E. CUTTING TECHNIQUE
v Machine adjustment
v Make sure the Cutting dies in a good condition .
v For the hole skin start on the left shank, cut trough to the butt and to the right s hank.
v Side start back layer to the direction of shank and belly. ( This would result to wastes incurring on interior quality parts of leather).
v Cutting dies have to be placed as close as possible to avoid excessive waste.
v Sample of the shoes should be placed as close as possible to avoid excessive waste
v Cut the large sizes from the largest skin.
v Save skins with many defects for small sizes
v Lift the cutting dies, do not drag them across the leather as they could scratch it.
v Ensure that suede’s patterned and shaded leather is match up.
v Place cut components on the bench so as to avoid damage and put knives on the flesh side of stacked component
v Operator should be felt the stretch direction before cutting

F. CUTTING RULES FOR LEATHER
v Extensibility
Ø The Upper must not stretch in longitudinal direction
Ø Bearing in mind the function of the skin on the body of animal helps the cutter to know the direction of stretch in the various parts of the skin.
v Quality
Ø The best part of the leather must be used for the forefoot are (vamp, toecap, which is referred to as the face of the shoes.
Ø The left & right shoe have to be in the same conformity quality and appearance
Ø Part cut “ the wrong way” always appear rougher on the shoe and darker in color
v Surface utilization
Ø Since leather is generally the most expensive material used for an upper, the surface are need to be used optimally, in order to achieve purpose
Ø Before cutting we must know the stretching direction

Basic rules of cutting
v In the case of a whole skin, the cutter begins on the left shank, working his way over the butt to the right shank. The second layer goes in the reverse direction
v Cow leather almost always comes in sides. In this case the cutter always begins at the back line and works his way systematically.

G. CUTTING RULES FOR TEXTILES AND SYNTHETICS
v Textiles
Ø All textiles components, whether the upper or lining, must have the least stretch in the longitudinal direction of the foot
Ø Placement of the cutting dies thus depends on the direction of warp and weft in the material.
Ø To avoid a possible formation of wrinkles a diagonal stretch is often necessary when working with foxing and lining parts.

v Textile-based synthetic materials
Ø For coated textile, the same basic rules apply as for textiles without coating
Ø Upper parts are cut, under compliance with wrap and weft. When working with printed textiles. The direction of the print also needs to be considered.
Ø However, if the material is used for foxing, the parts are cut out of the material in diagonal direction, in order to avoid folds when lasting.

v Non-woven synthetic material
Ø Non-woven synthetic upper materials are available today with and without a woven backing, in various different thickness and in all required survase finish.
Ø The least stretch should be in the longitudinal direction of the upper.


H. EDGE INKING
If color on the edges of the leathers are not the same (not dyed trough) after being cut, then the edge of these materials must be sprayed with correct and matching ink. Edge inking will be done for visible edge on the shoes.

I. SKIVING
To make the edge of components thinner because of the layering component, we have to skive the edge of component to avoid x-ray (example : PU Foam 8 mm for collar padding)

J. BUFFING
Buffing is the process to remove the surface of leather, making better absorption of primer and cement to the leather. The purpose of having initial buffing process in cutting department is to make the buffing process in assembly easier and faster. For some models, we also need to buff PU Foam to avoid x-ray (example: PU foam 8 mm for collar padding)

K. SCREEN PRINTING AND EMBOSSING
Ø Screen Printing
Usually used for brand name or adidas logo, we have to use the correct and matching ink.

Ø Embossing
HF embossing is another ornamental operation. The precise temperature, pressure and time needed for successful embossing very according to the type, substance and moisture content of the upper material being embossed.

L. EMBROIDERY
During embroidery care has to be taken to ensure that sufficient stitches are programmed in order to achieve an uniformed appearance especially on the edges. The use of the correct thread type and thickness as well as correct needle size is very important for the stitching result. The color of the embroidery used must correspond with the stipulated color specification. Thread ends must be cut or flamed correctly.

Shoe making Process

To make shoe completely need some process :

1.Cutting
2.Sewing
3.Pressing Bottom
4.Stockfitting
5.Assembling
6.QC
7.Packing
8.Delivery