QUALITY CONTROL GUIDANCE

1. UPPER MATERIALS - LEATHER
Leather parts at vamp & toe with loose-grain or finish … finish peeling
Leather with "orange peel" finish … pipe … grainy
Leather torn … cut … nicked
Visual leather defects in vamp or toe cap area
Distinct color deviations / discoloration
Edges not dyed or dyed with wrong color
Long fibered (suede) leather
Color crocking
Leather cut in wrong stretch
Leather under lays not skived correctly creating visible "x-raying"

2. UPPER MATERIALS - SHYNTETIC / TEXTILE
Distinct color deviations / discoloration
Weave faults (i.e. clubs; surface not uniform; loose weave)
Delamination
Materials cut in wrong direction / stretch

3. SKIVING & MARKING UPPER MATERIALS
Skiving quality (reduction thickness / skive width) not to standard

4. STITCHING
Incorrect needle type or size
Stitching not locked
Broken stitches
Stitch length under 3 per 1 cm or over 5 per 1 cm
Stitching not to standard over a distance of more than 2 cm
Edge distance of more than 2.5 mm
One stitch of the edge
Loose thread tension on upper
Tongue placed 3 mm or more off center
3 stripe stitches more than 2 mm out of place, visible crocked

5. THREAD / THREAD ENDS
Thread not according to material specification
Thread ends in excess of 2 mm

6. LINING
Heel (collar) lining poorly (too much / too little) or inconsistently turned (folded) over
Lining cemented wrinkles causing pressure points / aesthetics
Lining too short , does not reach under lasting board
Lining damaged
Wrong color or material used (not to specification)
Open stitching or loose lining ends

7. MOLDED UPPER COMPONENTS / LOGO THREATMENTS
Eyelet's, hooks, triangles, rivets, lace locks, speed laces, ghillies missing or damaged (sharp edges) or not to material specification
Plastic or metal parts, trims … damaged … incorrectly positioned, attached, or not to material specification (too soft, discoloration, sharp edges)
Emboss and / or screen print not correctly processed, with unclear definition or incorrectly positioned
Quality of PVC / rubberized print (or any) logo treatment not correctly processed, with unclear definition or incorrectly positioned
Quality of embroidery not clearly defined (wrong thread … poor stitching program … thread tension … quantity of stitches)




8. POOR TOE LASTING
Toe height / vamp length differences of more than 3 mm
Distorted shape (off - center) toe / vamp lasting
Wrinkles of folds visible on outsole sidewall caused by wrinkled lasting



9. POOR SIDE LASTING
Upper is not fitting tightly to the last
Wrinkles or creases noticeable in the shank or quarter

10. HEEL LAST ING / HEEL COUNTER (INSIDE) / BACK PART MOLDING
Wrong heel counter number or size (too small / too large)
Counter deformed, edges folded causing pressure points
Counter not caught under lasting board
Counter placed off center

11. BACK STAY OFF CENTER / CROOKED
Back stay noticeably crooked , or greater than 3 mm

12. BACK (HEEL) & QUARTER (COLLAR) HEIGHTS
Greater than 3 mm higher or lower than requested standard
Logo heights or heel pieces that exceed 3 mm

13. EYESTAY MIS-ALIGNED / CROOKED
Eyestay or throat miss-aligned by more than 3 mm

14. ROUGHING (UPPER)
Under roughing
Over roughing ± 1.0 mm badly repaired / not repaired
Roughing that damages are the fiber structure of the material

15. OUTSOLE MARKING / CEMENTING / PRIMIMG-MIDSOLES, OUTSOLES, LASTED UPPERS
Over cementing / over priming @1.0 - 2.0 mm / badly repaired

16. SOLE LAYING 9OFF – CENTER / CROOKED)
Bottom unit incorrectly positioned

17. POOR ADHESION
Outsole to mid sole
Outsole to upper
Mid sole to upper
Torsion bar to mid sole or outsole
Heel-stabilizer to mid sole or outsole or upper
Inlayed component parts / directly injected with sole
Poor bonding of any components that should be firmly cemented together

18. OUTSOLE STITCHING (ARRIANCE STITCH)
Stitch length more than 2 mm for adults and 1 mm for children from below mentioned standard
Stitch length adult 8-10 mm / stitch
Stitch length children 6-8 mm / stitch
Broken stitches
Out of channel
Poor tension / tight tension
Stitch ends before channel end
Thread not cemented to insole board and sock liner (minimum 5 cm)
Cup sole stitching thread not stuck down with tape in the case of removable inlay sole


9. INLAYSOLE
Wrong inlay sole pattern
Wrong size (too long / too short)
Inlay sole not bonded
Delamination of inlay sole cover
Wrinkled or rolled
Inlay sole thickness differs by more than 0.5 mm from the specification
Inlay sole hardness differs by more than 5 points from the specification
Screen or transfer printing peel off
Color variation between pairs
Soiled or stained

20. ARCH COOKIE
Wrong size arch cookie
Arch cookie loose or incorrectly positioned


21. COLOUR VARIATION - UPPER, MIDSOLE, COMPONENTS
Any noticeable variation within a pair of shoe that would cause customer return
Colors that do not match approved samples or scotdic / pantone#

22. OUTSOLE / FOXING / BUMPE APPEARANCE / CLEANLINESS
Color is not matching between shoes in a pair
Color not matching scotdic / pantone# & signed confirmation sample
Under to over cured rubber
Shore hardness more / less than ± 3 points of specification
Delamination (no bonding) of different rubber segments
Shininess of outsole
Exudations or visible film on the sole surface or blooming
Excessive color bleeding
Sole more than 2 mm too long or too short
Excessive color migration sepecially on cup / sidewall
Specified non-marking sole which is actually marking
Poor or excessive repair for color migration … paint peeling, loose
Repair paint color does not match
Poor outsole trimming

23. MIDSOLE , FOOTBED APPEARANCE / CLEANLINESS
Color is not matching between shoes in pair
Color not matching scotdic / pantone# & signed confirmation sample
Distinct mid sole wedge adhesive line
Two or more air bubbles 1.5 mm in diameter or more
Nick and / or scars in molded mid sole longer than 2 mm
Adhesive, primer, spoilage, stains on sidewall
Shore hardness more than ± 3 points of specification
Excessive concentration of pin holes
Mid sole thickness or length more than ± 2 mm from spec
Angle of level (provile contour) significantly different than confirmation sample
Excessive under cut
Paint feeling or loose
Top line of molded EVA thickness > 1 mm due to poor trimming or blowing
Molded EVA sidewalls heavily wrinkled
Discoloration

24. CLEATED
Tacks, studs, spikes or rivets missing
Damaged rivets, studs or spikes
Receptacles, rivets, insole tacks not clenched properly
Studs, spikes inserted skewed (not at 90 degrees to the insole / outsole)
Shank reinforcement missing (lydall board)
Galvanized rivets not used
Screw in studs not tight
Key wrench must be functional and matching confirmation

25. SOILING
One or more soiling or cement stains more than 3 mm in diameter or an excessive amount of smaller stains
Visible marking lines
Non repairable cement stains or soiling up to 1 cm in diameter must be B-graded
Non repairable cement stains or soiling over 1 cm in diameter must be C-graded

26. PACKING
Bonding of box flaps
Damaged shoe box
Distinct shade variation of shoe box to standard
Distinct variation between lid and shoe box
Shoe box print not clearly / fully defined
Wrong size of the shoe box (too small or too large)
Barcode label and inner box contents are not identical

27. ODD SHOES / HANG TAG
Right and left foot shoe not one correct pair (different back heights, vamp lengths etc.)
Different size left & right foot
Shoes / size labels do not correspond exactly to bar-code label
Hangtag / technical manual missing
Appearance and print quality of hangtag, technical manual not clean
Missing accessories

28. LACES
Shoe lace length either too long or too short
Shoe laces not as specified
Shoe lace color not matching confirmation

29. OTHER DEFECTS
Other items which influences the comfort and durability, or the use of the shoes



FINAL INSPECTION DEFECTS CLASSIFICATION


DEFINITION OF "A", "B", "C" GRADES
A-GRADE PRODUCTS:
Shoes with no functional or cosmetics defects that will impair the marketability of the shoes.
B-GRADE PRODUCTS:
Shoes that have no major functional defects, and will not cause injury to the person wearing the shoes for the intended sport. The product does have cosmetic defects, that cannot be properly repaired.
C-GRADE PRODUCTS:
Shoes have major functional defects which could cause injury to wearer, or major cosmetic defects that cannot be repaired. Shoes are also considered C-Grade, if they have poor quality workmanship or material that could shorten the normal life of adidas reputation.

REMARK
Pressure points inside the shoes are always C-Grade(s)
Defects in the "Cleated Category" which cannot be eliminated completely are C-Grade(s)
The factory retains responsibility for compensation claims addressed to adidas except for specific incidents agreed by both parties

ASSEMBLING

A. HEEL COUNTER INSERTING

Before inserting heel counter we must understand the type and grouping of heel counter. We also to know discrepancy between left and right heel counter.

Lining and upper material must be coated with cement in the whole area where the heel counter is placed. Heel counter has to dip with correct cement.

The heel counter must be inserted straight, not too high and not too low. Correction are not possible after inserting and molding.

B. HEEL COUNTER MOLDING

Important: Sizes of uppers, heel counters and molds must fit.

The molding must be done properly. The upper must straightly be pulled down and held until male and female molds are closed with the upper in between. A mirror should be placed at the machine in such a way, that the operator can control the backside of the mold.

The heel mold must correspond to shape and size of the heel counter.

C. ATTACHING STROBEL INSOLE BOARD

After heel counter inserted to the upper, heel lining and heel cap will be stitched together.

D. ATTACHING INSOLE BOARD TO THE LAST

The thickness of shank / insole boards has to met requirement mentioned on model specification sheet. Insole board and shank board will be attached using hot melt and then press. We have to check the temperature of hot melt machine and the type of hot melt.

After that insole board which already attached with shank board will be attached to the last. Last and insole board must be fit and attached correctly.

E. LACING UPPERS

To make sure that the upper acquires the correct width during the following lasting process, it has to be laced with a corresponding lacing clip or an adequate lacing tool in the accurate width.
In case of low cut articles uppers normally can be laced from the 2nd hole of the eyelet opening throat point. For men’s size 4 holes are to be laced, the ladies’ sizes need 3 holes laced.
Exception in regard to the design and pattern are always possible.

F. LASTING

In general, all production are forced to use lasting machines with hot melting facilities for all lasting operations.

Modern lasting methods guarantee exact bonding of the uppers to the insoles. This bond remains durable even when the shoe passes through cement dyers and heat setters with temperatures of up to 60O C and need 10 second for good bonding quality. Important to check upper position (must be center) before lasting.

G. TOE MOULDING

Leather uppers must be prepared for the stress of the lasting operations. Therefore the forefoot area must be moistened by using a toe moulding apparatus.

The moisture makes the leather softer and Suppler. The upper more precisely take the shapes of the last and the leather grain does not break during the lasting process.


H. HEAT SETTING

During the various board lasting operations, the upper is stretched over the last with lasting pincers and other tools in the lasting machines in multi directional pulls.

It must be guaranteed that the lasted shoes keep exactly the shape of the last. Shrinkage after lasting means an unacceptable loss of fit for the shoe.

The temperature and time of the equipment must be strictly regulated depending on the determined instructions and the positive result of the heat setting process must be controlled randomly.

I. SHOE MARKING

All articles with a shell or half shell soles need to be marked.

In order to achieve accurate marking, the original soles which will be attached on the shoes later on have to be used for doing the marking.

The shoes marked have to be checked for accurate marking at regular intervals. Inaccurately marked shoes cause either over roughing or under roughing.

J. ROUGHING

Roughing should never weaken too much the fiber structure of the leather, because this automatically would lead to material breakage when the shoe is worn.

Besides the inner edge of the lasting margin has to be roughed down to zero from outside to inside an a wedged-shapes way, so that he stair-like transition at the lasting margin end is removed.

After roughing the lasted shoe must be cleaned carefully in order to avoid poor bonding.

K. FIRST CEMENT COATING

The Pur-based cement has to be mixed with 5% hardener and has to be properly stirred shortly before processing.

The cement hardener mixture has to be processed within 2 hours in order to avoid the negative effects of a beginning chemical reaction.

Procedure for second cement coating corresponds to First Cement Coating

The soles have to be cemented simultaneously with the shoes. The cementing of the soles has also to be done completely and evenly.

Special attention is necessary that pasting is effective for the shell soles up to the top edge and for flat soles to the outer edge.

L. ATTACHING SOLES

Before soles can be attached, they must be activated.

The soles have to be positioned beginning on the toe area to the heel in an exactly straight way. Stretching, twisting or compressing the soles automatically leads to deformation.

M. PRESSING SOLES

The soles have to be pressed on the shoes immediately after being attached otherwise the activated cement becomes to cold, so that an intensive bonding between soles and lasted shoes cannot be achieved anymore.

N. COOLING

To consolidate he shape given to the upper during lasting operation the shoes are subjected to a process of cooling after the soles are attached.

The temperature of this operation has to be strictly regulated and controlled.
O. CLEANING OF SHOES

All cement stains, visible markings, stains or any kind of dirt inside and outside the shoes have to be removed.

P. PRESSING RECEPTACLE FOR SCREW IN STUDS

In order to avoid pressure points the inserted receptacles must be properly countersunk into the insole. Insufficiently countersunk receptacles cause severe injuries to the player’s feet. Shoes with this defect must be destroyed.

Q. PRESSING RIVETS

The rivets have to be accurately positioned into the grooves of the outsoles, which are molded for this purpose. The correct length of the rivets is of deciding importance.

CUTTING

A. INCOMING MATERIAL INSPECTION
All materials from warehouse must be checked and ensure that warehouse department sends the right materials, and cutting department has to check that there is “released” sticker on materials.
If there are any color grouping, cutting dept. has to inform other dept (stitching, assembly, and packing)

B. CUTTING PREPARATION

Leather Storage
Materials from warehouse should be prepared and stored according to the standard for each type of materials.
1. Leather need to be protected from the sunlight, otherwise the leather will be yellowing.
2. The temperature can’t be too high, otherwise the chemical in material will come out.
3. It is better hanging the leather than rolling leather in the leather storage , so wrinkles or creases can be avoided.

Cutting Dies Inspection
In order to make the cutter have high performance the cutting template the most important preparation process before cutting. It can help the cutter avoid the defective.
Cutting Dies Inspection :
· Check the size of the cutting die to see whether it is fit with the pattern.
· Check the horizontality the cutting die on the cutting board or glass.
· Inspect the cutting dies quality through both sound and vision.

Machines Adjustment
1. The optimal distance between cutting die and cutting board is 8 – 10 mm
2. Always set the pressure to zero after every shift finishing and when every shift starting need to reset the pressure in order to avoid any cutting board and any cutting dies damages.

MATERIAL TYPE :

v Leather
Checking with the leather before cutting is necessary to the cutter. Cutter must check quality cutting area with correct stretch, without defective and loose grain. Each type of leather have to be stored separately. Leather normally stretches by arrow, but some special parts are soft and can stretch four directions. So cutter must try to pull leather in order to know leather stretching before cutting.

v PU, Textile, Foam
Every roll from warehouse should be prepared according to the standard number of layer for each type of material, example :
Ø Super tuff : 4 Layer
Ø Cosmo : 6 Layer
Ø Meriskin : 2 Layer
Ø Foam 4.30 : 4 Layer
Ø Foam 8.50 : 2 Layer
Ø Canvas 6oz : 4 Layer
Ø H. Nylex : 4 Layer
Ø Nylon : 5 Layer
Ø LS : 2 Layer
Ø Bontex : 3 Layer





C. LEATHER QUALITY
Leather can be divided into 6 parts, each part has different quality level with each area of the whole leather due to different structure.
v Back
Firm structure, high quality
This area is the most valuable part with the best fiber structure and very view elasticity.

v Shoulder
Worse than the back part because of natural construction.

v Neck
Similar with the leg position, has a little soft, multi-wrinkle.

v Belly
The muscular fiber is longer than the other parts, so the skin is soft, extensible, easy getting loose grain. This position often causes by movement and has some special structure.

v Leg
Similar with the belly material, not has a great value, used for less quality-required components.

v Flank
Soft, multi-wrinkle at armpit and hamstring position. Very soft, serious wrinkle, loose grain. Normally, we cannot cut any components from this area.


D. DEFECT ON LEATHER
Natural defect
v Warble damage holes on scars caused by the grub of warble fly
v Scratchy scars caused by wide, and fighting
v Disease produce a rough are on the skin
v Growth marks, lines in the neck and shoulder areas, more pronounced in older animals
Processing
v Flay cuts caused during of flesh leave the skin weakened
v Brand mark

E. CUTTING TECHNIQUE
v Machine adjustment
v Make sure the Cutting dies in a good condition .
v For the hole skin start on the left shank, cut trough to the butt and to the right s hank.
v Side start back layer to the direction of shank and belly. ( This would result to wastes incurring on interior quality parts of leather).
v Cutting dies have to be placed as close as possible to avoid excessive waste.
v Sample of the shoes should be placed as close as possible to avoid excessive waste
v Cut the large sizes from the largest skin.
v Save skins with many defects for small sizes
v Lift the cutting dies, do not drag them across the leather as they could scratch it.
v Ensure that suede’s patterned and shaded leather is match up.
v Place cut components on the bench so as to avoid damage and put knives on the flesh side of stacked component
v Operator should be felt the stretch direction before cutting

F. CUTTING RULES FOR LEATHER
v Extensibility
Ø The Upper must not stretch in longitudinal direction
Ø Bearing in mind the function of the skin on the body of animal helps the cutter to know the direction of stretch in the various parts of the skin.
v Quality
Ø The best part of the leather must be used for the forefoot are (vamp, toecap, which is referred to as the face of the shoes.
Ø The left & right shoe have to be in the same conformity quality and appearance
Ø Part cut “ the wrong way” always appear rougher on the shoe and darker in color
v Surface utilization
Ø Since leather is generally the most expensive material used for an upper, the surface are need to be used optimally, in order to achieve purpose
Ø Before cutting we must know the stretching direction

Basic rules of cutting
v In the case of a whole skin, the cutter begins on the left shank, working his way over the butt to the right shank. The second layer goes in the reverse direction
v Cow leather almost always comes in sides. In this case the cutter always begins at the back line and works his way systematically.

G. CUTTING RULES FOR TEXTILES AND SYNTHETICS
v Textiles
Ø All textiles components, whether the upper or lining, must have the least stretch in the longitudinal direction of the foot
Ø Placement of the cutting dies thus depends on the direction of warp and weft in the material.
Ø To avoid a possible formation of wrinkles a diagonal stretch is often necessary when working with foxing and lining parts.

v Textile-based synthetic materials
Ø For coated textile, the same basic rules apply as for textiles without coating
Ø Upper parts are cut, under compliance with wrap and weft. When working with printed textiles. The direction of the print also needs to be considered.
Ø However, if the material is used for foxing, the parts are cut out of the material in diagonal direction, in order to avoid folds when lasting.

v Non-woven synthetic material
Ø Non-woven synthetic upper materials are available today with and without a woven backing, in various different thickness and in all required survase finish.
Ø The least stretch should be in the longitudinal direction of the upper.


H. EDGE INKING
If color on the edges of the leathers are not the same (not dyed trough) after being cut, then the edge of these materials must be sprayed with correct and matching ink. Edge inking will be done for visible edge on the shoes.

I. SKIVING
To make the edge of components thinner because of the layering component, we have to skive the edge of component to avoid x-ray (example : PU Foam 8 mm for collar padding)

J. BUFFING
Buffing is the process to remove the surface of leather, making better absorption of primer and cement to the leather. The purpose of having initial buffing process in cutting department is to make the buffing process in assembly easier and faster. For some models, we also need to buff PU Foam to avoid x-ray (example: PU foam 8 mm for collar padding)

K. SCREEN PRINTING AND EMBOSSING
Ø Screen Printing
Usually used for brand name or adidas logo, we have to use the correct and matching ink.

Ø Embossing
HF embossing is another ornamental operation. The precise temperature, pressure and time needed for successful embossing very according to the type, substance and moisture content of the upper material being embossed.

L. EMBROIDERY
During embroidery care has to be taken to ensure that sufficient stitches are programmed in order to achieve an uniformed appearance especially on the edges. The use of the correct thread type and thickness as well as correct needle size is very important for the stitching result. The color of the embroidery used must correspond with the stipulated color specification. Thread ends must be cut or flamed correctly.