Selasa, 19 Februari 2008

QUALITY CONTROL GUIDANCE

1. UPPER MATERIALS - LEATHER
Leather parts at vamp & toe with loose-grain or finish … finish peeling
Leather with "orange peel" finish … pipe … grainy
Leather torn … cut … nicked
Visual leather defects in vamp or toe cap area
Distinct color deviations / discoloration
Edges not dyed or dyed with wrong color
Long fibered (suede) leather
Color crocking
Leather cut in wrong stretch
Leather under lays not skived correctly creating visible "x-raying"

2. UPPER MATERIALS - SHYNTETIC / TEXTILE
Distinct color deviations / discoloration
Weave faults (i.e. clubs; surface not uniform; loose weave)
Delamination
Materials cut in wrong direction / stretch

3. SKIVING & MARKING UPPER MATERIALS
Skiving quality (reduction thickness / skive width) not to standard

4. STITCHING
Incorrect needle type or size
Stitching not locked
Broken stitches
Stitch length under 3 per 1 cm or over 5 per 1 cm
Stitching not to standard over a distance of more than 2 cm
Edge distance of more than 2.5 mm
One stitch of the edge
Loose thread tension on upper
Tongue placed 3 mm or more off center
3 stripe stitches more than 2 mm out of place, visible crocked

5. THREAD / THREAD ENDS
Thread not according to material specification
Thread ends in excess of 2 mm

6. LINING
Heel (collar) lining poorly (too much / too little) or inconsistently turned (folded) over
Lining cemented wrinkles causing pressure points / aesthetics
Lining too short , does not reach under lasting board
Lining damaged
Wrong color or material used (not to specification)
Open stitching or loose lining ends

7. MOLDED UPPER COMPONENTS / LOGO THREATMENTS
Eyelet's, hooks, triangles, rivets, lace locks, speed laces, ghillies missing or damaged (sharp edges) or not to material specification
Plastic or metal parts, trims … damaged … incorrectly positioned, attached, or not to material specification (too soft, discoloration, sharp edges)
Emboss and / or screen print not correctly processed, with unclear definition or incorrectly positioned
Quality of PVC / rubberized print (or any) logo treatment not correctly processed, with unclear definition or incorrectly positioned
Quality of embroidery not clearly defined (wrong thread … poor stitching program … thread tension … quantity of stitches)




8. POOR TOE LASTING
Toe height / vamp length differences of more than 3 mm
Distorted shape (off - center) toe / vamp lasting
Wrinkles of folds visible on outsole sidewall caused by wrinkled lasting



9. POOR SIDE LASTING
Upper is not fitting tightly to the last
Wrinkles or creases noticeable in the shank or quarter

10. HEEL LAST ING / HEEL COUNTER (INSIDE) / BACK PART MOLDING
Wrong heel counter number or size (too small / too large)
Counter deformed, edges folded causing pressure points
Counter not caught under lasting board
Counter placed off center

11. BACK STAY OFF CENTER / CROOKED
Back stay noticeably crooked , or greater than 3 mm

12. BACK (HEEL) & QUARTER (COLLAR) HEIGHTS
Greater than 3 mm higher or lower than requested standard
Logo heights or heel pieces that exceed 3 mm

13. EYESTAY MIS-ALIGNED / CROOKED
Eyestay or throat miss-aligned by more than 3 mm

14. ROUGHING (UPPER)
Under roughing
Over roughing ± 1.0 mm badly repaired / not repaired
Roughing that damages are the fiber structure of the material

15. OUTSOLE MARKING / CEMENTING / PRIMIMG-MIDSOLES, OUTSOLES, LASTED UPPERS
Over cementing / over priming @1.0 - 2.0 mm / badly repaired

16. SOLE LAYING 9OFF – CENTER / CROOKED)
Bottom unit incorrectly positioned

17. POOR ADHESION
Outsole to mid sole
Outsole to upper
Mid sole to upper
Torsion bar to mid sole or outsole
Heel-stabilizer to mid sole or outsole or upper
Inlayed component parts / directly injected with sole
Poor bonding of any components that should be firmly cemented together

18. OUTSOLE STITCHING (ARRIANCE STITCH)
Stitch length more than 2 mm for adults and 1 mm for children from below mentioned standard
Stitch length adult 8-10 mm / stitch
Stitch length children 6-8 mm / stitch
Broken stitches
Out of channel
Poor tension / tight tension
Stitch ends before channel end
Thread not cemented to insole board and sock liner (minimum 5 cm)
Cup sole stitching thread not stuck down with tape in the case of removable inlay sole


9. INLAYSOLE
Wrong inlay sole pattern
Wrong size (too long / too short)
Inlay sole not bonded
Delamination of inlay sole cover
Wrinkled or rolled
Inlay sole thickness differs by more than 0.5 mm from the specification
Inlay sole hardness differs by more than 5 points from the specification
Screen or transfer printing peel off
Color variation between pairs
Soiled or stained

20. ARCH COOKIE
Wrong size arch cookie
Arch cookie loose or incorrectly positioned


21. COLOUR VARIATION - UPPER, MIDSOLE, COMPONENTS
Any noticeable variation within a pair of shoe that would cause customer return
Colors that do not match approved samples or scotdic / pantone#

22. OUTSOLE / FOXING / BUMPE APPEARANCE / CLEANLINESS
Color is not matching between shoes in a pair
Color not matching scotdic / pantone# & signed confirmation sample
Under to over cured rubber
Shore hardness more / less than ± 3 points of specification
Delamination (no bonding) of different rubber segments
Shininess of outsole
Exudations or visible film on the sole surface or blooming
Excessive color bleeding
Sole more than 2 mm too long or too short
Excessive color migration sepecially on cup / sidewall
Specified non-marking sole which is actually marking
Poor or excessive repair for color migration … paint peeling, loose
Repair paint color does not match
Poor outsole trimming

23. MIDSOLE , FOOTBED APPEARANCE / CLEANLINESS
Color is not matching between shoes in pair
Color not matching scotdic / pantone# & signed confirmation sample
Distinct mid sole wedge adhesive line
Two or more air bubbles 1.5 mm in diameter or more
Nick and / or scars in molded mid sole longer than 2 mm
Adhesive, primer, spoilage, stains on sidewall
Shore hardness more than ± 3 points of specification
Excessive concentration of pin holes
Mid sole thickness or length more than ± 2 mm from spec
Angle of level (provile contour) significantly different than confirmation sample
Excessive under cut
Paint feeling or loose
Top line of molded EVA thickness > 1 mm due to poor trimming or blowing
Molded EVA sidewalls heavily wrinkled
Discoloration

24. CLEATED
Tacks, studs, spikes or rivets missing
Damaged rivets, studs or spikes
Receptacles, rivets, insole tacks not clenched properly
Studs, spikes inserted skewed (not at 90 degrees to the insole / outsole)
Shank reinforcement missing (lydall board)
Galvanized rivets not used
Screw in studs not tight
Key wrench must be functional and matching confirmation

25. SOILING
One or more soiling or cement stains more than 3 mm in diameter or an excessive amount of smaller stains
Visible marking lines
Non repairable cement stains or soiling up to 1 cm in diameter must be B-graded
Non repairable cement stains or soiling over 1 cm in diameter must be C-graded

26. PACKING
Bonding of box flaps
Damaged shoe box
Distinct shade variation of shoe box to standard
Distinct variation between lid and shoe box
Shoe box print not clearly / fully defined
Wrong size of the shoe box (too small or too large)
Barcode label and inner box contents are not identical

27. ODD SHOES / HANG TAG
Right and left foot shoe not one correct pair (different back heights, vamp lengths etc.)
Different size left & right foot
Shoes / size labels do not correspond exactly to bar-code label
Hangtag / technical manual missing
Appearance and print quality of hangtag, technical manual not clean
Missing accessories

28. LACES
Shoe lace length either too long or too short
Shoe laces not as specified
Shoe lace color not matching confirmation

29. OTHER DEFECTS
Other items which influences the comfort and durability, or the use of the shoes



FINAL INSPECTION DEFECTS CLASSIFICATION


DEFINITION OF "A", "B", "C" GRADES
A-GRADE PRODUCTS:
Shoes with no functional or cosmetics defects that will impair the marketability of the shoes.
B-GRADE PRODUCTS:
Shoes that have no major functional defects, and will not cause injury to the person wearing the shoes for the intended sport. The product does have cosmetic defects, that cannot be properly repaired.
C-GRADE PRODUCTS:
Shoes have major functional defects which could cause injury to wearer, or major cosmetic defects that cannot be repaired. Shoes are also considered C-Grade, if they have poor quality workmanship or material that could shorten the normal life of adidas reputation.

REMARK
Pressure points inside the shoes are always C-Grade(s)
Defects in the "Cleated Category" which cannot be eliminated completely are C-Grade(s)
The factory retains responsibility for compensation claims addressed to adidas except for specific incidents agreed by both parties

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