ASSEMBLING

A. HEEL COUNTER INSERTING

Before inserting heel counter we must understand the type and grouping of heel counter. We also to know discrepancy between left and right heel counter.

Lining and upper material must be coated with cement in the whole area where the heel counter is placed. Heel counter has to dip with correct cement.

The heel counter must be inserted straight, not too high and not too low. Correction are not possible after inserting and molding.

B. HEEL COUNTER MOLDING

Important: Sizes of uppers, heel counters and molds must fit.

The molding must be done properly. The upper must straightly be pulled down and held until male and female molds are closed with the upper in between. A mirror should be placed at the machine in such a way, that the operator can control the backside of the mold.

The heel mold must correspond to shape and size of the heel counter.

C. ATTACHING STROBEL INSOLE BOARD

After heel counter inserted to the upper, heel lining and heel cap will be stitched together.

D. ATTACHING INSOLE BOARD TO THE LAST

The thickness of shank / insole boards has to met requirement mentioned on model specification sheet. Insole board and shank board will be attached using hot melt and then press. We have to check the temperature of hot melt machine and the type of hot melt.

After that insole board which already attached with shank board will be attached to the last. Last and insole board must be fit and attached correctly.

E. LACING UPPERS

To make sure that the upper acquires the correct width during the following lasting process, it has to be laced with a corresponding lacing clip or an adequate lacing tool in the accurate width.
In case of low cut articles uppers normally can be laced from the 2nd hole of the eyelet opening throat point. For men’s size 4 holes are to be laced, the ladies’ sizes need 3 holes laced.
Exception in regard to the design and pattern are always possible.

F. LASTING

In general, all production are forced to use lasting machines with hot melting facilities for all lasting operations.

Modern lasting methods guarantee exact bonding of the uppers to the insoles. This bond remains durable even when the shoe passes through cement dyers and heat setters with temperatures of up to 60O C and need 10 second for good bonding quality. Important to check upper position (must be center) before lasting.

G. TOE MOULDING

Leather uppers must be prepared for the stress of the lasting operations. Therefore the forefoot area must be moistened by using a toe moulding apparatus.

The moisture makes the leather softer and Suppler. The upper more precisely take the shapes of the last and the leather grain does not break during the lasting process.


H. HEAT SETTING

During the various board lasting operations, the upper is stretched over the last with lasting pincers and other tools in the lasting machines in multi directional pulls.

It must be guaranteed that the lasted shoes keep exactly the shape of the last. Shrinkage after lasting means an unacceptable loss of fit for the shoe.

The temperature and time of the equipment must be strictly regulated depending on the determined instructions and the positive result of the heat setting process must be controlled randomly.

I. SHOE MARKING

All articles with a shell or half shell soles need to be marked.

In order to achieve accurate marking, the original soles which will be attached on the shoes later on have to be used for doing the marking.

The shoes marked have to be checked for accurate marking at regular intervals. Inaccurately marked shoes cause either over roughing or under roughing.

J. ROUGHING

Roughing should never weaken too much the fiber structure of the leather, because this automatically would lead to material breakage when the shoe is worn.

Besides the inner edge of the lasting margin has to be roughed down to zero from outside to inside an a wedged-shapes way, so that he stair-like transition at the lasting margin end is removed.

After roughing the lasted shoe must be cleaned carefully in order to avoid poor bonding.

K. FIRST CEMENT COATING

The Pur-based cement has to be mixed with 5% hardener and has to be properly stirred shortly before processing.

The cement hardener mixture has to be processed within 2 hours in order to avoid the negative effects of a beginning chemical reaction.

Procedure for second cement coating corresponds to First Cement Coating

The soles have to be cemented simultaneously with the shoes. The cementing of the soles has also to be done completely and evenly.

Special attention is necessary that pasting is effective for the shell soles up to the top edge and for flat soles to the outer edge.

L. ATTACHING SOLES

Before soles can be attached, they must be activated.

The soles have to be positioned beginning on the toe area to the heel in an exactly straight way. Stretching, twisting or compressing the soles automatically leads to deformation.

M. PRESSING SOLES

The soles have to be pressed on the shoes immediately after being attached otherwise the activated cement becomes to cold, so that an intensive bonding between soles and lasted shoes cannot be achieved anymore.

N. COOLING

To consolidate he shape given to the upper during lasting operation the shoes are subjected to a process of cooling after the soles are attached.

The temperature of this operation has to be strictly regulated and controlled.
O. CLEANING OF SHOES

All cement stains, visible markings, stains or any kind of dirt inside and outside the shoes have to be removed.

P. PRESSING RECEPTACLE FOR SCREW IN STUDS

In order to avoid pressure points the inserted receptacles must be properly countersunk into the insole. Insufficiently countersunk receptacles cause severe injuries to the player’s feet. Shoes with this defect must be destroyed.

Q. PRESSING RIVETS

The rivets have to be accurately positioned into the grooves of the outsoles, which are molded for this purpose. The correct length of the rivets is of deciding importance.